- Pool pH & Pool Alkalinity The pH and Alkalinity levels of swimming pool water affect many areas of the swimming pool and must be kept at the correct levels if you expect to successfully maintain your swimming pool. The Alkalinity of pool water acts as a buffer for the pH, and helps prevent the pool pH level from fluctuating. The Alkalinity should be maintained at 80 – 120 ppm. The pH is the measure of the acidity of the swimming pool water, and the pH level should be maintained at 7.2 – 7.6 ppm. The pH of pool water is somewhat sensitive, but easily controlled if the Alkalinity is kept in range. All basic pool test kits should read the pH and Alkalinity level of pool water, and these levels are easily adjusted with common water balancing pool chemicals. If the pool pH level is not kept in range pool water may irritate the skin and eyes of swimmers, corrode the pool surface and inside of the pool equipment and make it very hard to maintain the chlorine level of the swimming pool.
- Pool Chlorine Stabilizer The chemical name of pool “Stabilizer” is Cyanuric Acid and it is referred to by either title. The Stabilizer level of swimming pool water must be maintained at 30-50 ppm. The Stabilizer level is important, but is typically only tested at the beginning of the swimming season when a pool is opened. The Stabilizer in swimming pool water partially surrounds the chlorine on a molecular level, to protect the chlorine and prevent the chlorine from being quickly burned off and used up by the sun. The symptoms of having too much Stabilizer or too little stabilizer in your pool water are very similar, and if you experience problems maintaining a chlorine level when all other chemical levels are properly balanced the stabilizer level should be tested. If the Stabilizer level tests lower than 30 ppm it will be difficult to maintain a chlorine level, because any chlorine added to your swimming pool will quickly evaporate and burn off in direct sunlight. If the Stabilizer level tests above 50 ppm it will also be difficult to maintain a chlorine level. Rather than partially surrounding the chlorine in your pool water to protect the chlorine, too much stabilizer will completely surround the chlorine making it inactive. In this state the chlorine is unable to combine with bacteria and harmful contaminants to sanitize your swimming pool. Stabilizer can be added to a swimming pool if necessary to raise the level, however once Stabilizer is present in pool water it cannot be easily removed. To reduce the amount of Stabilizer in a swimming pool the water must be diluted by partially draining the pool and re-filling with fresh water. 25% of the pool water should be drained and replaced with fresh water. The pool should be circulated for 12-24 hours, and the Stabilizer level should be tested again. This process should be repeated until the Stabilizer level is within range. The chlorine tablets and granular chlorine used to sanitize a swimming pool on a daily basis is a pre-stabilized form of chlorine. This means that the chlorine contains a small amount of stabilizer, and as chlorine is added to the pool a very small amount of Stabilizer is also added to help maintain the level. This small amount of Stabilizer constantly added with pool chlorine does not cause a problem in outdoor swimming pools because water is splashed out or evaporates, and gets replaced with fresh water to dilute the Stabilizer. This pre-stabilized form of chlorine cannot be used in indoor swimming pools, because much less water evaporation occurs and the stabilizer level will slowly buildup. Indoor swimming pool owners need to use an un-stabilized form of chlorine.
- Calcium Hardness The calcium hardness of swimming pool water refers to the amount of the mineral calcium present in the pool water. The calcium hardness should be maintained at 80-150 ppm in a pool with a vinyl liner, or 150-200 ppm in a concrete or plaster finish pool. Low levels of calcium hardness can lead to corrosive water conditions, which may damage the pool surface, pool equipment and pool plumbing. If the water in a plaster or masonry finish pool becomes corrosive, the water will absorb calcium from the pool walls and floor by eating away at the pool surface until the hardness level nears 150 ppm. The calcium hardness level can be easily raised using a Calcium Hardness Increaser available from most pool supply dealers. High levels of calcium hardness may lead to cloudy pool water and “scaling”. Scaling is most visible around the water line of a swimming pool as a white chalky deposit, but also forms inside pool equipment and pool plumbing. A pool Calcium Hardness Reducer chemical is available from most pool supply companies to lower the hardness to the desired range for your pool. You may also partially drain and refill a swimming pool with fresh water, which has a lower concentration of Calcium. Calcium is present in the water used to fill the pool and in the pool chemicals used to treat the water. The pool chemical that adds the most calcium to pool water is standard chlorine pool shock. If you find that your calcium hardness level is too high, read the label of the pool shock you’ve been using and you will likely find that the active ingredient is calcium hypochlorite. Each time this pool shock is added to the pool water, calcium is added to the water. To prevent this problem begin using Chlorine-Free Pool Shock on a regular basis, instead of standard chlorine pool shock (Calcium Hypochlorite). The active ingredient in chlorine-free pool shock is Potassium Monopersulfate, which does the same job of oxidizing bacteria and harmful organics but does not contain any calcium. If you choose to switch to chlorine-free shock you should always still keep the standard chlorine pool shock on hand, because it is the only pool chemical capable of killing algae.
There are many known factors that can contribute to cloudy pool water in swimming pools and spas. Some of these factors are linked to our environment; which includes the wind, the rain and the surrounding vegetation. These are known to cause cloudiness in our pools and spas. The cloudiness in your pools or spas is the result of the presence of small suspended particles, that are too minuscule to be filtered. In fact they are also too small to be removed by oxidation as well. So how do we combat this unsightly pool problem?
Unless our water facility is indoors, we cannot do much about the environment; however there are five key contributors to the milky or cloudy look of our pool or spa water. In order for us to carry out proper pool care of our swimming pools and spas, we have to first understand how these five key elements contribute to the cloudy pool water that we are experiencing.
Five key Elements for Cloudy pool Water and Their Cures
Like I mentioned earlier, there are five key factors that are responsible for water in your swimming pool being cloudy. Often times when we are confronted with a cloudy pool or spa, confusion begins to set in. However, once we understand the cause, the confusion begins to lessen. So lets look at the most common causes of cloudy water in swimming pools. So far we understand that cloudiness in caused by small, fine suspended particles in the water. This problem is caused by:
Poor pool filtration and circulation – Your pool or spa water will become cloudy if your pool filters are functioning poorly. A poorly functioning pool filter system results in restricted water flow. The restriction in flow could be caused by a malfunctioning pool pump or lack of back washing (filter cleaning). Whenever you have a poorly maintained pool filtration/circulation system, you will always be battling pool water turbidity issues.
Poor pool water balance – whenever your pool water balance is out of whack, there is a possibility suspension of calcium carbonate particles will result. To avoid or correct this problem, you must balance your pool water. You have to test your and balance your pool chemicals. This will send the calcium carbonate back into solution. Once this accomplished, your pool cloudy issues will also clear up.
Pool algae growth – The growth formation of pool algae, that has not yet full bloomed, will definitely caused your swimming pool or spa to be hazy, dull or cloudy looking. You can easily distinguished this caused of cloudiness from the others; because your pool bottom and wall surfaces will feel slippery.And your pool water will also look tint green. To correct this swimming pool water problem, will require you to carry out a chlorine shock treatment of your pool. You must achieve a PPM (parts per million) level of 30 to rid your water facility of this problem.
Heavy bather/swimmers loads – If you get a heavy influx of bathers or swimmers in your swimming pools and spas, you will have pool water problems. Heavy bather loads means an overload of human organics; which cause serious water turbidity problems. To effectively prevent water turbidity issues of this kind, is to regularly shock treat your pool or spa. This will clear up your pool/spa and raise you pool chlorine above its normal levels. This is mostly done during the summer time in anticipation of heavy bather loads.
Small suspended particles – Small or fine suspended particles that can come from the environment, can be in your pool water. Because these particles are so small, your pool filters are unable to remove them. In other words, they are unfilterable. The suspended particles will pass right through any sand filters without being caught; thus, eventually leading to cloudy pool water. To effectively get rid of these small suspended particles, you will need to use a water clarifier. The water clarifier will cause the fine particles to coagulate; thus, making them to clump together and become a size that is now filterable.
The secret to having beautiful pool water, reducing chemicals and preventing pool problems
Proper swimming pool maintenance can prevent common problems such as green pool water, cloudy water, pool staining, itchy eyes, pungent chlorine smell and the spread of various waterborne diseases. We all want beautiful, clean, clear enjoyable pool water that is soft to the skin and easy on the eyes, hair and swimwear.
Everyone wants a beautiful pool with as little effort as possible! With the use of the Crystalline Pool System maintaining a beautiful, sparkling clear pool with soft enjoyable water with no chlorine smell is a breeze. Your swimming pool water treatment consists of a little bit of chlorine and a weekly application of Crystalline and that is typically it!
Swimming Pool Maintenance Tips
Owning a swimming pool is a privilege but to enjoy a nice beautiful pool with minimum hassles and expense requires some basic responsibilities.
Remember an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure! If you let your pool water get out of balance and your pool water becomes green or cloudy/murky, burns your skin or smells strongly it may costs you a lot more to get it back to a sparkling clear, beautiful state than if you never let it get away from you in the first place! Pool maintenance is essential and cannot be neglected, especially during the swimming season. Fallen leaves and other organic matter in the pool eventually decompose and attract bacteria. Pool maintenance should be carried out throughout the year, irrespective of the pool type, with un-screened pools needing the most attention. Below is a schedule, that if followed should help maintain beautiful, soft, clear pool water year round.
Check Skimmer Basket: The skimmer basket must be checked and cleared of debris, so as to ensure fresh and circulating pool water. Debris such as leaves, insects, bird droppings and other substances must be cleared from the surface of the pool by using a leaf net or leaf bagger. Leaves and other debris at the bottom of the pool must also be cleared by using a leaf net or bagger.
PH Level: Maintaining the right water balance is very important. The pH level is the measure of acidity or alkalinity, and should to be tested weekly. The pH level in the pool water must be slightly alkaline, that is a pH of around 7.2-7.6 must be maintained. It is at this pH level that chlorine is most effective. Moreover, this level is similar to the pH of our skin. It can be controlled by adding either an acid or an alkali such as baking soda. Incorrect pH levels can lead to damage of pool surface and pool equipment!
Chlorine Level: Sanitizing pools is equivalent to sterilizing the pool, whereby bacterial and algal forms can be destroyed. Inadequately sanitized pools can become breeding grounds for bacteria. The range of ‘free’ chlorine that has to be maintained in the pool is usually 1.0-3.0 ppm. With the use of the Crystalline Pool System you can maintain your chlorine at the 1 ppm range with good results. Since chlorine is a known carcinogen and it’s fumes have been shown to be bad for asthma sufferers the fact that Crystalline allows you to reduce your chlorine levels about 70% is a very good thing!
Algaecide: To control the algal contaminants, the pool must typically be given a dose of algaecide once a week. Fortunately with the use of Crystalline you should not have a need for an algaecide unless you have the uncommon yellow mustard algae.
Clarifier: The annoying cloudy water problem can be resolved by adding a dose of clarifier to the pool water. Clarifying agents make the tiny particles stick to each other, to form larger particles. These larger particles then either settle to the bottom of the pool to be vacuumed up or are trapped by the filter. The good news is that clarifiers are not needed when using Crystalline since it contains a flocculent!
Calcium Level: Water that is too low in calcium becomes corrosive, while water high in calcium results in scale formation. This is why checking the calcium hardness is very important. This test has to be conducted at local pool store, as the standard testing kit does not test for calcium hardness. A sample of the pool water needs to be taken to your local pool store and tested.
Alkalinity: Correct total alkalinity will prevent sudden changes in the pH levels of the pool water. 80-120 ppm is the proper range for total alkalinity; the level can be adjusted by the addition of baking soda.
Overall by using Crystalline your pool water will be more stable and Calcium and Alkalinity levels will fluctuate less and your total chemical use will be lower.
Swimming pool filters are prone to accumulate oil and grease, and have to be cleaned by using a ‘filter cleanser degrease r’. How often this is required is a direct result of bathing load and how diligent bathers are about showering off before going into the pool, especially if they have been using tanning oils/lotions. Usually most cartridge filters are only good for one cleaning and then will need to be replaced with a new filter.
Shock Treatment: Shock treatments are important to destroy combined chlorine compounds (free chlorine is the active chlorine and is required, not combined or total). Shock treatment packages are sold locally, use according to the instructions on the package, shock during the evenings or when no one will be using the pool for several hours. This raises the level of free chlorine in the pool and also destroys germs and bacteria. With the proper use of Crystalline you will almost never need to shock your pool as the water will remain very clean and clear. You will save time, effort and money plus your pool will never look or feel better!
Metal Out Addition: Often tiny metal particles are found on the pool surface and can cause staining. They are very small and bypass the filter; they can be removed by adding a weekly dose of ‘Metal Out’ to the pool water. You should not need this product on a regular basis though and if you do, have the pool inspected by a professional to determine what the problem is.
So the question is, who in the world wants swimming pool algae, a green swimming pool or cloudy swimming pool water? No one should and it is completely unnecessary! With the proper knowledge and just a little effort, proper maintenance of your pool water can help prevent all the above problems. The best single product to make it easy to have a beautiful pool, with soft enjoyable water with a minimum of effort is the Crystalline Pool System!
Cloudy pool water is caused by many factors. These factors may be chemical (water balance, pH, improper methods), mechanical (pool filter system) or environmental (source water, excessive rain, heavy use). Often times, pool owners attempt to treat the symptoms but not the cause of the cloudy water, so we have to look at all of the things that may contribute to the problem. Let’s look at the causes of cloudy swimming pool water, then we can look at treatments and cures.
Before we dive in let’s first put cloudy water to the test. Cloudy pool water is in the eyes of the beholder. Cloudy can mean: Dull – the pool water just doesn’t sparkle. Hazy – it just isn’t as clear as it normally is. Cloudy – you can make out the bottom of the pool if you look hard. Opaque – the term says it all!
Many pool owners quickly blame “bad chemicals” so let’s start there. Here are some of the factors and their contribution to the cloudy water problem. Water chemistry can contribute to cloudy or hazy water – if the pH is HIGH (over 7.8) and or the Total Alkalinity (TA) is HIGH (over 200 ppm) and or the Calcium Hardness (CH) is HIGH (over 400 ppm). With pH & TA being high the water will become dull or flat and the chlorine reacts more slowly loses its ability to kill and control bacteria and algae. Now you have early algae growth – another cause of cloudy pool water. High CH doesn’t become a problem until the water warms up to over 85 degrees F; then you have a “cloudy” condition that won’t go away. Maintain good pool water balance with these parameters: pH – 7.2 – 7.6 (all pools); Total Alkalinity – 80 – 120 ppm (concrete) or 120 – 150 ppm (vinyl liner); Calcium Hardness 200 – 300 ppm (concrete) or 175 – 250 ppm (vinyl).
Other chemical or chemistry based reasons for cloudy pool water would be lack of regular shocking, periodic chemical cleaning of the filter, poorly maintained sanitizer levels, lack of a chemical maintenance routine. Regular weekly or biweekly shocking of the pool aids in oxidizing un-filterable swimmer waste such as body oils, lotions, urine, hair gel, perspiration, etc. We find that the single biggest mistake customers make in their normal care is not shocking the pool often enough or insufficiently (not using the proper amount of pool shock). Proper shocking also helps to “rejuvenate” the chlorine level and knock out early algae growth. Whenever you have a pool party with lots of expected bathers, consider shocking the pool the day before (helps build up the chlorine level providing a buffer for an eventual chlorine demand) as well as immediately following the party (shocks & oxidizes everything that was brought into the pool during the party — if your guests weren’t using the bathroom, the beer & soda had to go somewhere). Using a calcium hypochlorite shock such as BioGuard Burn Out Extreme is preferred since the product will get in, do its work, then get out. Potassium monopersulfate shocks like Oxysheen work well to help break up chloramines (combined chlorines), but shouldn’t be used exclusively.
If the chemistry is good and the pool is being properly shocked and algaecide added every 1 to 2 weeks, then it is necessary to look at the mechanical reasons. The mechanical components contributing to cloudy pool water would be improper filter size (too small), improper pump and motor size (too small or too large a horsepower pump), insufficient filtering time, poor circulation, improper maintenance (vacuuming & brushing). I can recount story after story when I’ve walked into a customer’s backyard to help them troubleshoot a problem pool only to find the filter shut off or improperly connected. When simple corrections are made, the pool water is clear in as little as 24 hours. Let’s examine some basics.
Your swimming pool’s filtering system should be operating a minimum of 8 to 10 hours per day, every day from opening to closing. If the pool water becomes cloudy or other problems become evident, then constant running of the filter until the problem is solved is required. If the filter was properly sized (even slightly bigger is better) then 8 to 10 hours daily is good. On the other hand, too large of a pump may be “harmful” to the filtration. If the horsepower is too great, you may be blowing dirt and everything else you want filtered right through the filter (especially sand filters). When it comes to 2 speed pumps, make sure the “high” speed run time is set for a minimum of 6 hours daily PLUS and additional 12 to 18 hours at “low” speed).
Consider using an automatic pool cleaner. You’ll end up with better circulation, cleaner pool surfaces and less work.
The other mechanical reasons are also important. Regular vacuuming and brushing help with the overall circulation by moving water around. Keep directional “eyeballs” pointed DOWN to force filtered water down to the bottom of the pool and therefore aid in water movement by breaking up dead spots. Too frequent backwashing of the filter doesn’t give the filter media enough time to do its best cleaning — a dirty filter filters a finer particle. One final mechanical reason for cloudy pool water, lack of use. Actively used pools are always better circulated and filtered. So even if the water is cloudy (as long as the water is in good chemical balance), use the pool!
Remember that whatever is out in the world, will eventually get in the pool and detract from water clarity. Pollen, dust, dirt, leaves, make-up water, bird droppings (forgot about those, right?), rain, local construction sites, etc. can all affect your swimming pool. Each of these culprits needs to treated differently. Pollen, dust and other fine particulate can be treated using a water clarifier like BioGuard Polysheen Blue. Flocculants work well in severe situations by settling the particles to pool bottom and vacuuming it all out on Waste. Use a skimmer sock inside of the skimmer to remove fine pollen or dust that may be too fine for your sand filter.
Leaves, swimmers, makeup water, droppings will create a chlorine demand. Shocking the pool is necessary. Make-up water can change the water chemistry affecting the pH, TA and CH not to mention the possible addition of heavy metals, all of which can cause or add to water cloudiness.
As you can see there’s no 1 or 2 reasons for cloudy pool water. It’s usually a combination of factors. Some of them not even coming from the pool itself. The best solution to cloudy pool water is prevention utilizing a good, regular chemical and cleaning maintenance program. About 30 to 60 minutes per week is all that it takes. If or when your pool water turns cloudy, don’t start adding clarifiers or flocs. Get down to the real cause. Look at all of the contributing factors.
Pool water maintenance is a very important part of home improvement due to the fact that swimming pool water usually contains different types of microbes, including bacteria as well as algae. These microbes can actually cause health problems that could end up causing health problems such as ear, nose as well as throat infections. Therefore, you should check the water pH level as well as the chlorine level regularly as part of your pool water maintenance routine to avoid possible health problems.
Sources of contamination
The following are some of the different sources of the common types of bacteria and microbes that may be found in your pool:
• People who swim in the swimming pool – this is normally the major source of bacteria.
• Dead wildlife – for instance, frogs or insects or lizards may sometimes drown in the pool.
• Animals, for example, dogs – some pets usually like to paddle especially on hot days in the pool.
• Debris surrounding the property, which may include leaves, grass, trees as well as dust and dirt.
Pool water maintenance
The four major keys that can assist you to achieve pool water maintenance while maintaining high water include the following:
You should pump the water in the pool through a good filter to remove debris and particles. The size of your pool as well as the horsepower and flow volume of the pool pump determine the time needed to run the filter. However, approximately 35% of the water may not get filtered.
Chlorine is actually a chemical that sterilizes the water and helps to get rid of debris. You should use a chlorine stabilizer to extend the chlorine’s half-life. In general, the longer the filtration cycle, generally the less chlorine is needed. Likewise, the more chlorine used, the shorter filtration cycle is required. Chlorine requirement is usually based on a variety of factors, such as the pump as well as filter system, water level, amount of debris, water temperature and also the actual number of people who use the pool.
3. pH Level
The pH level usually indicates how alkaline or acidic the water is at any particular time. A pH level normally of 7.0 actually means that water is neutral; below 7 usually indicates the water is acidic while above 7 usually means the water is alkaline. You should maintain the pH level between 7.2 and 7.6 pH. If the pH is above 8, any person who swims in that pool is usually at risk of suffering from skin rashes. Also, a pH below 7.1 may sting the eyes of swimmers.
4. Calcium Hardness
This basically refers to the quantity of mineral calcium actually dissolved in water. A low calcium level normally worsen pool surfaces, whereas a high calcium level may leave a white ‘scum’ on surfaces as well as equipment.
General pool water maintenance
The following are general ways of achieving pool water maintenance in your pool:
• Check your pH as well as chlorine levels daily preferably,
the day before people go swimming to ensure the quality is safe.
• In extremely hot weather, you should check the pH and chlorine at least once per day.
• Brush and vacuum your pool.
• Regularly check the pump, skimmer boxes and other pool equipment. Repair or actually replace pool parts as necessary.
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Swimming pools offer a great way to beat the scorching sun. Owning a swimming pool in your backyard is indeed a privilege that most people yearn for. However, this privilege translates to responsibility. Apart from swimming in your pool, you need to pay close attention to pool water maintenance to ensure the pool remains in good condition for a long time.
Swimming pools are often exposed to different weather elements such as rain, debris and snow among others. Fallen leaves and other organic waste tend to collect on the surface. Such waste materials decompose, attract bacteria and trigger the spread of various waterborne diseases, such as dysentery, typhoid, and cholera just to name a few. This is where pool water maintenance comes in handy. Here are some tips on pool water maintenance.
Pool Water Maintenance
Chlorine Level: Generally, chlorination is performed as pool water maintenance to sanitize the water in the pool. When you add certain chemicals, like calcium hypochlorite or sodium hypochlorite, to the pool water it will be sterilized. Chlorination destroys bacterial and algae formation. The amount of free chlorine that should be maintained in the pool water is about 1.0-3.0ppm. Bromine is another chemical that can be used to sanitize the pool.
Water pH: The pH level should be checked at least twice each week. pH level refers to the alkalinity or acidity measure and the pH level of pool water should be about 7.2-7.6 because chlorine is more efficient at this level. Highly alkaline water leads to water clouding, whereas highly acidic water can corrode the pool metal equipment. You can also add muriatic acid to increase the acidity of the water. On the same note, soda ash or baking soda can also be added to increase alkalinity. The addition of alkali or acid is based on whether the pool is too acidic or alkaline in nature.
Check Skimmer Basket: The skimmer basket should be checked and any debris removed twice every week. A surface skimmer or leaf net may be used in removing unwanted materials, such as insects, bird droppings and leaves from the pool surface. When it comes to removing debris from the pool floor, you can use a leaf bagger. Powdered or liquid tile cleaning agents can be used to clear scum rings and lines from the pool tiles.
Shock Treatment: Shock treatment is necessary because pool requires free chlorine rather than combined chlorine. This treatment breaks up combined chlorine compounds to increase the free chlorine level in the pool. In addition, it eliminates the germs, thereby leaving your spool sparkling and attractive. The shock treatment should be performed as part of a pool water maintenance about once a week.
Using Algaecide and Clarifier: Algaecide and clarifier should be added to the pool once a week. An algaecide eliminates the algae without causing any damage to the pool tiles, while the clarifier handles cloudy water.
Brushing and Vacuuming: You can use a pool brush to remove dirt that has accumulated on the bottom and sides of the pool. Brush the pool thoroughly before vacuuming the pool.
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If a new swimming pool is in the works for your property, why not take it to the limits and design a custom pool water fountain? This is an excellent way to bring your landscape to life and create a special space for entertaining, romantic evenings, or just a lot more fun with the family.
When you add a water fountain into your custom pool, you get all of the following:
- Water Movement
- Creative Shape
- Beautiful Color
- Enticing Sound
You can take a pool that looks rather average or dull and turn it into an exciting, enticing place where everyone wants to be.
If you do a lot of entertaining on your property or are putting in a custom pool so you can hold more parties in the future, you should consider a lighted pool water fountain. This will give an attention-grabbing centerpiece to your night-time parties and will set the mood for romantic encounters when you really want to please someone special.
Light up the fountain. Let the pool water start to ripple peacefully. Turn on some soft music. Dip your feet in the water and take that special someone in your arms with a glass of crisp wine on hand. Who needs a romantic vacation when you have paradise in your backyard?
Alternatively, you can substitute the soft music for something energetic and the special someone with a group of your best friends or colleagues you really want to impress. The lighted fountain can entertain and impress just about anyone!
You can always change the light patterns and color of light used in your pool. This allows you to adjust according to who your company is and what ambience you want to establish for the event. The light will flicker over the rippling water, creating just the right mood.
If you’re thinking that this all sounds wonderful but you’re sure it is out of your price range, don’t be so quick to assume. There are some very affordable pool water fountains on the market. You just have to know what size pool you will be putting in, how it will be shaped, and where you might install the water fountain.
If you are working with a tight budget or have an above ground pool, you will likely want to stick with a floating pool fountain. These are the most affordable pool water fountains sold and they will work with virtually any type of pool. All the fittings you need to attach to the return of your pool will be provided with the fountain.
If you are more worried about the amount of space your fountain consumes than price, a wall pool fountain could be the solution. They are very easy to install and the power cords go behind the fall so they are not visible to your guests. This is the most compact option since it isn’t actually inside the pool.
Many wall fountains are lightweight and easy to take down if you move, which is something to consider if you aren’t settled in a forever home just yet.
If you want to permanently install a pool fountain for the purpose of increasing the value of your home or you are definitely sure that you won’t want to move your pool water fountain in the future, you can use a freestanding water fountain. This type of pool fountain goes into the pool and will either show its electrical cords or will hide them to the point you can’t easily access the power supply. It is best to hide the cords, but keep in mind this will make it very difficult to move the fountain in the future.
Some types of freestanding pool water fountains include:
- Pedestal Water Fountains
- Tabletop Water Fountains
- Large Center Pool Fountains
You also have the option of adding a water fountain into a garden that is near your swimming pool or perhaps adding a fountain to a hot tub. In these cases you will need a much smaller pool water fountain.
Whatever type of pool water fountain you decide on, make sure that it fits in with the design of your pool. Keep in mind that extra features like lighting will increase the cost of the fountain. In many cases you can lower expenses by installing accent lights on your property around the pool rather than going with the lighted fountain.
On their own with just you swimming in them, a pool can be a very quiet place, and whilst this can be relaxing in itself, the sound of running water can be even more relaxing. Indeed the sound of running water is known to relax the mind and hence the body. The use of indoor water features in Japan is a good example of this.
So why not add a water feature to your pool? You could add a waterfall with water cascading into your swimming pool. This is a great feature to have as you can stand underneath it and let the water falling down pummel your shoulder muscles to relax them.
Or you could add a solution like that found in modern spa hotel swimming pools, and that is the addition of various types of in-pool, and outside of the pool water jets. If you go to a hotel spa you will now very often find various (often odd looking) stainless water jets that you can switch on whilst sitting at the edge of the pool.
These numerous jets do anything from pummeling your back and shoulders with water, through to blasting water up at your feet whilst you are seated poolside.
Installing such water features in your swimming pool does not cost as much money as you would think. However if you like the idea of adding such a feature just bear in mind that whilst they maybe added later, they will cost far less if you install them at the time of building your swimming pool.
Well with swimming pools dropping down in price many of us can now afford to buy one, particularly with large oval above ground pools offering the same benefits of an in ground pool but at a fraction of the price.
However all pools even in very hot climates normally need some form of heating, and heating a pool obviously costs money. Sure you can buy solar collectors but unless you live in a climate with around ten hours really good strong sunshine each day, then they are unlikely to heat the pool to the temperature you want without an additional heat source.
The bulk of swimming pools are heated by mains gas powered boilers, or by boilers using external LPG gas tanks.
Using LPG just for your swimming pool boiler is actually a great idea as it enables you to be able to tell exactly how much gas you are using, and hence how much money your pool is costing to heat. Where as when you use a mains gas boiler to heat your pool and your house, then you have little or no idea how much of your actual gas bill is going on heating your pool.
Another option is to use an in-ground heat converter – this is whereby a borehole is dug several feet (Around thirty) into the ground and a water pipe placed in the hole. This is then used to heat the pools water with the natural heat from the Earth itself. These systems have come down in price in recent years and should not be overlooked as an option to heat your swimming pool.